Search Results for: diaper bag tutorial

Free diaper bag tutorial.

A hip diaper bag that your friends will envy and you will love for both its style and its practicality. Large enough to hold all your baby’s needs with room left over for your must-haves too! Features include being fully lined and spacious interior pockets that you can customize. Interior pockets can be made using lining fabric or exterior fabric for contrast.

You will need:
Exterior Fabric – 1 yd (1.25 yd if making interior pockets using exterior fabric for contrast) – home décor weight fabric works best

Lining Fabric – 1.25 yd (1 yd if making interior pockets using exterior fabric for contrast) – home decor weight fabric works best
Lightweight Woven Fusible Interfacing – 1.5 yd
¼” elastic – 1 yd
½” double fold bias tape – 1.5 yd
Magnetic snap
Your favorite sewing music (I recommend John Mayer, Ben Harper, and Jack Johnson)

Pieces to cut (see diagram if you want to ignore my writing):

Exterior fabric:
Cut 2: 20×18” rectangle for main body of bag, with 4×4” square cut out of bottom corners *double check direction of pattern in fabric before cutting is correct*
Cut 2: 3×26” strips for straps
Cut 1: 3×6” rectangle for magnetic snap closure tab, angle corners on one side if desired
If making interior pockets out of exterior fabric for contrast: Cut 2: 8×26” rectangles
Lining fabric:Cut 2: 20×18” rectangle for main body of bag, with 4×4” square cut out of bottom corners
Cut 2: 3×26” strips for straps
Cut 1: 3×6” rectangle for magnetic snap closure tab, angle corners on one side if desired
If making interior pockets out of lining fabric (do not cut out of lining fabric AND exterior fabric): Cut 2: 8×26” rectangles

Interfacing:Cut 2: 20×18” rectangle for main body of bag, with 4×4” square cut out of bottom corners (along 18” side)
Cut 2: 3×26” strips for straps
Cut 2: 3×6” rectangle for magnetic snap closure tab, angle corners on one side if desired

Double fold bias tape:
Cut 2: 26” length

Cut 2: 14” lengths

*All seam allowances are 1/2” unless otherwise noted.*


1. Iron interfacing to corresponding exterior fabric pieces on the wrong side of fabric including the main body and straps. Iron interfacing to magnetic snap closure tab pieces of lining and exterior on wrong side of fabric.

2. Right sides together, sew the 2 main body pieces of exterior fabric together at bottom seam and press open. Sew side seams and press open. At the opening where you cut the 4” squares, match and pin the bottom seams to the side seams and sew using a ¼” seam allowance. Press seams towards top of bag.
3. Mark placement of magnetic snap by measuring 4.5” from top center of bag and attach bottom half of magnetic snap using manufacture’s instructions.

*Turn fabric right side out and place somewhere that you can see it when you are getting frustrated later on to keep you motivated (that’s why I always do the exterior first)!

4. Attach top half of magnetic snap to closure tab piece of lining. Right sides together, pin to exterior closure tab and sew ¼” seam, angling at corners if desired. Turn right side out and topstitch 1/4″ from edge.
5. Right sides together, pin and sew exterior fabric strap to lining fabric strap. Sew ¼” seam down each side, leaving ends open. Turn right side out, press, and topstitch along each side close to edge. Repeat for other strap.
6. Sandwich bias tape over top edge of interior pocket fabric and sew close to edge, forming a casing for the elastic.

7. Press 4-5 evenly spaced pintucks into bottom edge of interior pocket, until width of interior pocket is 20”. Stitch along lower edge to secure pintucks. Turn lower edge under ¼” to wrong side and press, turn another ¼” and press.
8. Thread elastic through backside of casing and backstitch at both ends to secure. Pin wrong side of pocket to right side of main body lining 5” from the top of the lining, matching up side edges, and topstitch two rows along lower pintucked edge. Stitch pocket to lining at sides.

9. Stitch vertical lines through lining and interior pocket to form individual pockets that fit your needs.
10. Repeat steps 6-9 using 2nd interior pocket and 2nd piece of main body lining fabric.

11. Complete lining of bag using step 2 above.

12. Right sides together, place exterior fabric main body inside lining main body, pinning at side seams. Sandwich closure tab on back center of bag (opposite of side that bottom half of magnetic snap was attached), ensuring that the exterior fabric right sides are facing each other. Sandwich outer edge of straps 3” in from each side seam, again ensuring that the exterior fabric right sides are facing each other.
13. Leaving a 4-5” opening, stitch along upper edge of bag, through exterior fabric, lining fabric, straps, and closure tab. Turn bag right side out, trim seam to reduce bulkiness if needed, and press. Hand stitch opening of bag closed and top stitch 1/2″ from edge. Top stitch another row 1/4″ from top edge.
14. Take a good long look at your bag because you are done and can start filling it up!

Guest Blogger: Jenn’s Cloth Diapering and Doubler Tutorial

Today I am thrilled to welcome Jenn from Compulsively Creative to Go Green Month!  Lucky for me, Jenn is not a newcomer to Sew Much Ado.  You may remember her awesome guest tutorial on Gorgeous Gathers.  Without that tutorial I don’t think my obsession with ruffles would have began.  I’m not sure whether to thank or blame Jenn for that one :).  I’m sure I’ll be 85 and still thinking of her everytime I sew gathers!  Thanks for joining us today Jenn!

Hi, I’m Jenn from Compulsively Creative. I’m so honored that Abby asked me to be part of Going Green month here at Sew Much Ado! She is amazing! When she asked me to participate I wasn’t really sure what I would do, then I realized that the biggest thing that I do to be a good steward over the planet is cloth diapers. So I thought I’d share a little about that and an easy tutorial for doublers.*

Cloth Diapering: not just going green, but SAVING green.

When I heard several of my friends say they did cloth diapers, I thought what you’re probably thinking right now ‘Yeah right. I already hate changing diapers.’ Then after almost a year of paying over $100 a month in diapers for my two little guys, I decided I’d give it a try to save money. I mean seriously, who can’t think of any other way to spend $100?!

So I made the switch primarily for money, and it’s a bonus that it saves a lot of garbage in landfills too.

Cloth diaper technology has really changed since our moms were doing it. Now they have Velcro, elastic, comfort, and ease built into them. I decided on gdiapers simply because they looked like the easiest ones to clean and use. But there are several leading brands out there like, Bum Genius, Fuzzi Bunz, bumkins, and so many more.

Using cloth diapers may or may not be for you, but it give it a second thought, it’s really not that bad and it could be saving you a lot of GREEN, not to mention the earth.

If you already do cloth diapers or decide to switch, here’s a FAST and EASY tutorial on how to make a doubler*

* A doubler is a second cloth you put in with your regular cloth diaper insert to increase absorbency. This is great for nights, long outings, or other long periods of time so your child won’t soak through the diaper.

Description: This tutorial will guide you through making one 6″ X 12″ fleece doubler.

Materials Needed: 2 pieces of fleece 6″ X 12″.

1) Cut 2 pieces of fleece 6″ X 12″.

Fleece works great because it wicks moisture away from the baby’s skin to keep them comfortable and rash free.

2) Place the 2 pieces wrong sides together. You’ll see the outside of the fabric on both sides.

3) Serge the 2 pieces together around all 4 sides. If you don’t have a serger you can zig zag, blanket stitch, or even just straight stitch. Fleece won’t fray.

4) Sew 2 lines lengthwise down the doubler 2″ in on both sides.

Tip: If you want to sew a straight line but don’t have a 2″ mark, just put a rubber band around your machine at the 2″ mark. You can also use masking tape. These make great guides!

Tip: If you have fabric bubbling up in front of your presser foot, try lowering the amount of pressure on your presser foot. Mine is normally set at a 4, but for this project I lowered it to a 3.5.

5) You’re DONE! That was so easy! And it only cost me $2 to make 10 doublers and I have 1/4 yard left!

That was so easy, you should make more!

Thanks Jenn!  I’ve never actually considered switching to cloth diapers before, but knowing that you did it and are happy makes me want to try!  I love the tip to put a rubber band around your machine for a larger seam allowance.  I will definately be doing that from now on.  Make sure to check out Jenn’s blog for great tutorials and ideas.


For Little Ones:


For Her:

 photo tulleskirt_zpsbeda448c.jpg 

For The Home:

Diaper bag.

I designed and made this diaper bag before Weston was born (luckily I had it finished extra early, or it would probably still be sitting in my sewing bins). I wanted a bag that would be large enough to hold everything for both Wyatt who is almost 2 and Weston who is a newborn.

I found the Michael Miller damask fabric at a local fabric store when I was still living in Arizona for $5 a yard, so I bought some with no plan in mind. I know, not something I would normally do, but how can you resist $5 a yard for Michael Miller fabric? So anyway, when I decided to make a diaper bag I couldn’t find anything I liked any better online, and although I was not too sure if the damask was too bright and bold for a diaper bag (for someone as boring and simple like me at least), I thought that maybe I’d give it a try. I decided that if I couldn’t find a lining fabric to match, I would use something else, but I totally lucked out and found the lining that was a perfect match at JoAnn. The lining fabric wasn’t my favorite, but I thought I better use it because I would probably never find anything else that matched so well. It’s kinda grown on me now so I don’t mind it so much.

Anyway, I’m sure you all care so much about all of that, so here’s some pictures of the inside. I wanted the look of a messenger bag but with the practicality of a zippered bag, so I added a set-in zipper that is separating so when it’s not being used it can lay totally flat inside the bag and doesn’t get in the way. It’s probably my favorite feature of the bag.

I also added lots of pockets, I almost thought too many, but I’ve already discovered that you can never have too many pockets, and they’re all full.

I thought about doing a tutorial for the bag, but then decided against it since it was my first one in this design and I wasn’t sure if I would be happy with it in the end. But it actually worked out really well, so I *might* (emphasis on “might”) do one in the future if enough people are interested. I also wouldn’t mind having a real paper pattern printed for the bag, for my own use and for others to use too, but I have no idea where to even start with all of that. Anyone have any suggestions?

Nursing Cover Tutorial

nursing cover tutorial
With all of my babies, my nursing cover was one of my most-used and most appreciated items. They make the perfect gift for a new mom, and can be whipped up in no time!

A stylish and practical nursing cover. The dimensions are slightly larger than most nursing covers, which gives added coverage and less chance of someone getting an uninvited sneak peek!

You will need:
1.25 yd fabric (home décor weight works best)
16” boning – in fabric casing – can be found in local fabric shops or online here (affiliate link)
2 D-rings – 1.25”-1.5” – these 1.5″ D-rings (affiliate link) are my favorite to use

Fabric pieces to cut:
one rectangle 28”x40” for main body
· one strip 4.25”x10” for neck strap
· one strip 4.25”x26” for neck strap

1. First we will complete the neck straps… Take 4.25”x10” strip of fabric and fold in half lengthwise right sides together. Stitch ¼” from edge along raw edges, forming a tube. Repeat with longer strip, but sew a curve towards the inner fold when you are reaching the last few inches of the strip. Trim seam allowance around curve close to the stitching line.

2. Turn each piece right side out and press flat with the seam going down the center of the strap. Topstitch ¼” from each edge on both straps.

3. Place shorter strap through D-rings, matching up raw edges. Stitch as close to the D-rings as possible, encasing them between the two layers of the strap.

4. On to the main body of the nursing cover… With your main body rectangle of fabric, fold and press upper edge (if your fabric has a definite pattern, ensure you know which side should be at the top!) ½” toward wrong side of fabric. This should be your 40” long edge. Fold and press again ½”.

5. Open up the folded edge and center the boning along the raw edge (I used black boning for demonstration purposes), with the boning curving away from you (sounds more confusing that it is… now’s a good time to take a look at the picture below). There should be 12” of the pressed edge on either side of the boning. Pin boning in place.

6. Stitch along upper edge of boning casing (depending on your boning, your stitching may need to be nearer the top edge). Stitch at either end of boning casing, ensuring that boning is completely covered by the casing. If needed, first trim 1/8” off of each boning end (plastic only, not the casing) to allow casing to completely cover the boning. This will assure OCD people like me that the boning will not move or poke through the casing or your fabric.

7. Allow the upper edge of fabric to fold over again the way it was pressed. With the right sides facing toward you, take each neck strap and tuck under folded edge, centering each strap at the edge of each end of boning. Pin in place. Stitch along lower edge of fold.

8. Press neck straps upward, away from the main body. Stitch along upper edge of main body, backstitching at edges of straps, securing neck straps in their final and upward position.

9. Fold and press lower edge of nursing cover ½”, fold another ½” and press again as was done with the upper edge. Stitch close to folded edge. Repeat with raw side edges.

Note: If you would like to add an interior pocket that can also be used as a burp cloth, simply cut a right-angle triangle piece of terry towel or chenille the size you would like your pocket to be, allowing enough fabric for a hem on the top edge. Hem the top edge, sandwich the raw edges of the triangle between one lower side and the bottom pressed edges before they have been stitched, and stitch the pocket right into place while you sew the bottom and side edge. I have personally never needed a pocket because it seems I always have a big diaper bag with me anyway and a separate burp cloth, but it’s a simple step to add if you think you might like one!

10. Thread the long strap through the front of the D-rings and back out again through one on the underside.

11. You are done, great job!

Give it away as a gift or keep it for yourself!