Faux Chenille Bunny Free Pattern

Faux Chenille Bunny Free Pattern
With a free printable pattern, this faux chenille bunny is the perfect gift for any little girl, whether it’s Easter or not! With both Easter and a baby girl coming arriving in our home next month, today’s project is one that will get double the use – my favorite kind of project!

Ready to get hopping?

Materials:

8 12″x12″ pre-washed flannel pieces – can be assorted colors and prints
polyfill stuffing
pins, scissors, and needle suitable for heavy fabric (size 14 works great)

Click HERE to download and print the bunny template.

Directions:
1. Print the bunny template using the link above. Ensure your printer is not set to scale before printing. Join template pieces along dotted line and cut along solid line.

2. Layer two sets of four 12″x12″ flannel pieces on top of each other, matching all four sides. If you are using assorted colors or prints of flannel, alternate the colors and prints evenly as pictured.

3. Pin flannel layers together every few inches throughout each stack.

4. Using one stack of flannel, stitch from one corner to the opposite corner in a diagonal line. If you have a walking foot, use it! It will help to keep all four layers in place as they are fed through the machine. If you don’t have a walking foot, you may want to reduce the presser foot tension slightly to help prevent slipping and stretching of the top flannel layers.

5. Stitch parallel to diagonal line, 1/2″ apart from first diagonal line, and keep repeating until the entire 12″x12″ flannel stack is stitched with diagonal lines.

6. Repeat steps 4-5 with second flannel stack.
7. With one flannel stack, cut in middle between each set of stitch lines, leaving the bottom layer uncut. If you have a slash rotary cutter, it will save a bit of time, but scissors work just as well.

Your finished stack will look like this…

8. Repeat step 7 with remaining flannel stack.

9. Trace bunny template onto uncut side of one flannel piece. Cut along traced line.

10. Flip bunny template over and trace onto uncut side of remaining flannel piece (both bunnies should be facing opposite directions). Cut along traced line.

11. Pin bunnies together with uncut sides facing outward, matching all edges. Stitch around raw edges using a 3/8″ seam allowance, leaving 4″ opening at bottom of bunnies.

12. Stitch again around raw edges using a 3/8″ seam allowance for stability, leaving same opening. Trim seam allowance to 1/8″, clipping close to any tight curves and corners.

13. Turn bunny right side out, ensuring all curves and ears are thoroughly turned. Using polyfill stuffing, fill bunny firmly through opening.

14. Turn raw edges of opening to inside of bunny and handstitch opening closed using a ladder stitch or other invisible stitch.

15. Now for the fun part – throw the bunny in the wash (with a load of towels ideally), and then into the dryer. The raw edges will fray and create the faux chenille look!

Your bunny will become softer and fluffier with each additional wash!
Add your bunny to your little princess’ Easter basket, and let her enjoy her new cuddly friend all year long!

Newborn Ruffle Fabric Diaper Cover Tutorial and Free Pattern

newborn diaper cover free pattern

 

Is there anything sweeter than a brand new baby wearing ruffles?! I think not ;). Today I’m sharing a Ruffle Fabric Free Diaper Cover Pattern with you so that you can make your own! It’s perfect for photos, under dresses, or on it’s own for those in hot enough climates where shirts are optional, hehe.
Photo of my niece Lydia – courtesy of Kyla Beth Photo Studio
We are soon to add a baby girl to our family, and I can’t imagine anything sweeter than newborn photos with a little girl wearing a ruffly diaper cover. I’ve heard from many of you who are also expecting a girl this spring or summer, and wanted to share this free pattern with you for a Ruffle Fabric Diaper Cover!
As newborn photos are usually taken within the first week or so after birth, this pattern is sized to fit a baby up to 9 pounds. But, since ruffle fabric is stretchy and super forgiving when it comes to sizing, many babies will be able to continue to wear the diaper cover for their first few months.
 
Materials:
(affiliate links below)
1/3 yd ruffle fabric
1/4″ elastic – 1  14″ piece
1/2″ elastic – 2  8″ pieces
Directions:
1. Print pattern pieces. Ensure your printer is not set to scale the pattern. Cut pattern pieces out along solid and dashed lines and tape together along dashed lines. Normally a diaper cover could be cut on the fold, but since ruffle fabric is a bit trickier to cut out (I’ll give some specific tips below), we’re going to use a full pattern piece that’s not on the fold.
2. Lay pattern pieces on ruffle fabric and cut out as directed, aligning top of pattern pieces just below point where one ruffle is attached (flip that ruffle up and out of the way while cutting). This will give enough width of non-ruffled fabric to use for the waistband casing.
A couple of other tips to keep in mind when cutting out your pieces:
When cutting the sides and curves of each piece, make sure that the ruffles are always laying flat as they would naturally fall.

When cutting the bottom of each piece, flip the ruffle nearest the bottom up so it does not get in the way of cutting.

A few tips before we start sewing with ruffle fabric:
* Since ruffle fabric is a knit, always use a ballpoint needle.
* Before pinning and sewing ANY seam, always make sure every ruffle is laying flat and in place. Sewing in the direction that the ruffles are laying will help them to stay put while being sewn (example: sew the side seams from the top of the diaper cover towards the bottom).
* Pin, pin, pin! I can’t say that enough, especially on any curved edges, where it’s more difficult to keep the ruffles in place as their sewn.
* Don’t stretch the fabric as it’s sewn. Allow the feed dogs on your machine to gently guide fabric through.
* Sergers work great with ruffle fabric, but I like to sew the seams with a sewing machine first and serge afterwards to give myself the opportunity to unpick any areas where the ruffles might have gotten out of place when sewn. Do what works best for you :).
* Ruffle fabric raw edges will not fray, so if you don’t have a serger, you can just leave the raw edges after they’re stitched – no need to zigzag.

3. Pin and stitch front and back pieces together at sides and bottom edges, leaving leg holes open and using a 1/2″ seam allowance. The ruffle nearest the waistband should be flipped upwards toward the top of the diaper cover while sewing the side seams (I didn’t do this, but I’ll explain why you should in a later step). When stitching the bottom seam, you may have to decrease your seam allowance to avoid stitching into a row of ruffles – I only had about a 1/4″ seam allowance on the bottom in this case, but use 1/2″ if you can.

Your ruffles should be laying nice and flat (your top ruffle will be facing upward though, right?).

 

 

4. Turn top of diaper cover 3/4″-1″ (depending how much fabric you have before the next row of ruffles) to the wrong side and pin in place, with the first row of ruffle flipped upward and out of the way of the pins.

If you had sewn the side seams with the top row flipped upward, you would not see this at the side seams, which makes it more difficult to sew the waistband casing without catching the top row of ruffles:

5. Stitch close to edge of pinned waistband, forming a casing for elastic, and leaving an opening to insert elastic. Pay special attention to keeping ruffles out of the way of the seam.

6. Pin one leg opening 1/2″ toward wrong side of fabric, using plenty of pins to keep ruffles in place.

7. Stitch close to edge of pinned edge, forming a casing for elastic and leaving an opening to insert elastic. It’s tricky to keep the ruffles perfectly in place as you sew around the curves, so chances are you’ll have a few areas of imperfection where the ruffles got caught up. The good news is that once the elastic is in, no one else will know, so don’t worry a whole lot about it (for the record, it pains me to say that).

8. Repeat steps 6-7 with remaining leg opening.

9. Use a safety pin to insert a 8″ piece (you can adjust the length of elastic based on the size of your baby’s thighs – take off a bit for an extra tiny baby, add a bit for a chubby baby, or if you want the cover to fit longer, you may also want to add a bit extra length) of 1/4″ elastic into casing of one leg opening. Overlap elastic ends 1/2″ and sew together using a zig zag stitch. Repeat with other leg opening and stitch opening of each casing closed.

10. Use a safety pin to insert a 14″ piece (again, adjust the length as needed) of 1/2″ elastic into waistband casing. Overlap ends 1/2″ and sew together using a zig zag stitch. Stitch casing opening closed.

 

Great work! Your diaper cover is ready to be worn on a cute little behind :).

I’m excited to share some pics of our little one wearing her ruffle fabric diaper cover when the time comes, but in the meantime, please share pics of your covers in by tagging @sewmuchado and using #sewmuchado on Instagram – I’d love to check them out!

 

Infant Peasant Dress Free Pattern and Tutorial

peasant dress free pattern

Doesn’t every baby girl need a dress that’s just as sweet as she is? Today I’m sharing this FREE Infant Peasant Dress pattern!

Infant Peasant Dress Free Pattern

This simple peasant dress pattern is sized 0-3m (approximately 8-12lbs), and is an easy project that is great for all sewing abilities, even beginners. The elastic neckline makes for an easy on and off, keeping both you and your little one smiling :).

We shared some of our favorite free baby dress patterns, but this is definitely at the top of our list! Add in some cute burp cloths and you have the perfect gift!

Infant Peasant Dress Free Pattern

A peasant dress pattern with more sizes and plenty of options may be coming soon to my shop, but enjoy this free infant pattern in the meantime!

Update: After many requests, the multi-sized pattern is now available in the shop! The Polly Peasant Dress & Blouse PDF Pattern has 10 sizes (0-3m to 6) and features the option for a dainty scalloped hem. You can find it HERE!

Materials:
*affiliate links below*
3/4 yd 100% quilting cotton fabric (45” wide)
1/4″ wide elastic – approximately 30” – Tip: I love to buy large rolls of elastic like these
– it saves a ton of money, and you rarely have to worry about running out when you want to make a last minute gift!
optional: rick rack for trim hem (40″ in length)

Click HERE to download pattern pieces for the free infant sized pattern. Follow the checkout process (no payment info will be asked for), and once that’s complete you’ll automatically be emailed the download link (be sure to check your junk mail if you don’t see it in your inbox and that you spelled your email address correctly)!

 

New in 2019: Learn to sew this baby peasant dress with our new detailed video tutorial below, or click here to watch it on our YouTube channel!


Instructions:

*All seam allowances to be 3/8″ unless otherwise noted.*

1. Print pattern pieces. Make sure your printer is set to print at 100% and not to scale the file down in size. Lay out fabric with both selvage edges folded in to center of fabric (creating two folded edges – on on each side with the selvages in the middle of the fabric) and right side inward. Cut out fabric pieces as directed on pattern pieces. If you prefer a plain hem rather than rick rack trim, add an extra 1/4-1/2″ to the bottom of the bodice pattern. The length of the dress is designed to hit at or just above the knee so it can be worn with tights or legwarmers, so feel free to add some extra length if you wish to make it longer!

2. Right sides together, pin and stitch one sleeve piece at curve to armhole curve on one bodice piece.

3. Right sides together, pin and stitch remaining sleeve piece at curve to remaining curve on bodice piece.
4. Serge or zig zag raw edges and press seams (technically seams should always be pressed toward the bodice, but I pressed them toward the sleeves so take your pick).
5. Right sides together, pin and stitch remaining curve on sleeves to armhole curves of remaining bodice piece. Serge or zig zag raw edges and press seams.
6. If using a serger, serge bottom of each sleeve, removing ¼” of fabric. If not using a serger, press bottom of each sleeve ¼” toward wrong side of fabric.
7. Press bottom of each sleeve ½” toward wrong side (if not using serger the bottom of each sleeve will now have two folds). You can do this step after you sew the side seams in step 9 if you wish, but pressing them now gives more room to work with and I personally find it easier.

8. If using a serger, serge around neckline, removing ¼” of fabric. If not using a serger, press top of neckline ¼” toward wrong side of fabric. Press neckline ½” toward wrong side (if not using serger the neckline will now have two folds).

9. Right sides together, stitch dress together at each side from bottom of dress through folded edge of sleeve, unfolding pressed edge on sleeve. Serge or zig zag raw side seams and press seams.
10. Fold each sleeve back along pressed edge and stitch close serged/folded edge of fabric, forming a casing for elastic and leaving a small opening (it’ll be a bit tricky to maneuver around your sewing machine so take your time and it’ll turn out great).

11. Stitch close to serged/pressed edge of fabric at neckline, forming a casing for elastic and leaving a small opening.

12. Cut 2 pieces of elastic, each 7″ in length. On each sleeve, insert elastic through opening using a safety pin and stitch ends together using a zig zag stitch, overlapping elastic ½” on each end. Note: 7″ of elastic will allow for a chubby baby’s arm circumference. If after inserting your elastic it looks a bit loose for your baby, you may want to trim 1/2″-1″ off the elastic before stitching the ends together.

13. Stitch opening closed on each sleeve.
14. Cut 12” length of elastic. Insert elastic through opening using a safety pin and stitch ends together using a zig zag stitch, overlapping elastic ½” on each end. Stitch opening closed.
 
15. Serge bottom hem of dress, removing ¼” of fabric, or press hem ¼” toward wrong side of fabric (if you’re adding rick rack to the hem you’ll also want to zig zag stitch the raw edge before pressing it).
If not sewing rick rack trim at hem: Press hem another ½” toward wrong side of fabric. Stitch close to folded edge around entire hem of dress.
16. For rick rack trim, align outer scalloped edge of rick rack with bottom edge of dress and stitch around entire circumference of bottom of dress down center of rick rack. Overlap rick rack at beginning and end and trim excess.

17. Press rick rack to wrong side of fabric, leaving one scalloped edge exposed on right side of dress. Topstitch close to edge of fabric around entire hem of dress.

Great job, you are done!

Infant Peasant Dress Free Pattern
Be sure to share your finished dresses in the Sew Much Ado Flickr group!

Free Kids Apron Pattern

the little apron free pattern
Whether they’re “helping” us cook, learning to become future Divinci’s, or just having a good time getting their hands in whatever they can at the moment, one thing’s for sure.  Kids get dirty.  As I made this apron recently, I was really surprised at the lack of free toddler and child apron patterns that are available online.  Off to work I went, and I’m so excited to share The Little Apron Free Pattern with you! You and your kids will love this free kids apron pattern!

Description:
The Little Apron is a simple and easy project that can easily completed in less than an hour.  The pattern is sized for toddler/child 3-7, but can be easily adjusted for smaller or larger sizes.  Please remember this pattern is for personal use only.

Materials:
3/4 yd fabric (quilting cotton or home decor weight fabric recommended)
8″x5″ contrasting fabric scrap for pocket
2 packages of extra wide double fold bias tape

Pieces to Cut:
Fabric: main body of apron from pattern piece (click on link below)
Contrasting fabric: 8″x5″ piece for pocket
Bias Tape: pieces in the following lengths: 7″, 8″, 18″, 37″, 53″ (cut 2)

 

Instructions:

Note: When sewing with bias tape, keep in mind that one side is folded narrower than the other.  Always sew with the narrow side on top, ensuring that the bottom folded side (the wider side) will be caught by the stitches.  It is also important to ensure that the fabric is sandwiched into the fold of the bias tape as snugly as possible.

1. Sandwich 7″ length of bias tape around top of apron.  Stitch bias tape to apron close to folded edge.  Trim any excess bias tape (you will usually be left with a bit of extra bias tape to trim off since it stretches as you sew).

2. Sandwich 37″ length of bias tape around one straight side of apron (leaving curved edges).  Begin topstitching, and stop when you reach the first corner (which will be the bottom corner of apron).  To make a nice mitered corner, lift the presser foot and remove the fabric, trimming the threads (second mitered corner is pictured in the next few steps).

3. Open the bias tape up and bring back down toward next side of apron.

4. Allow bias tape to fold in half as it originally was, sandwiching the fabric again between the tape.

5. Pin bias tape in place and begin stitching at diagonal fold.

6. Continue stitching bias tape to fabric along bottom and other straight side of apron, mitering second corner same as the first.

7. Mark 18″ from the end of one 53″ piece of bias tape.  At the 18″ mark, begin sandwiching and pinning bias tape around one curved edge of apron, starting at the top of the apron.  You will be left with approximately 24″ of bias tape free at the end.

8. Beginning at top free end of bias tape, topstitch close to edge of bias tape.  If you’d like, you can turn the raw edge under before beginning your stitches, but since bias tape does not tend to fray, it’s not necessary.  Backstitch once or twice when you reach the fabric, and continue sewing, stitching the bias tape to the apron along the curved edge.  Backstitch again when you reach the end of the curved edge, and continue stitching to the end of the bias tape.

9. Repeat with other curved side of apron.  Although you can pin the bias tape to the fabric the same as you did the first curved side, you will have to begin stitching from the opposite end of the bias tape (that will be the waist tie) instead of the neck tie end.

10. For the pocket, sandwich 8″ length of bias tape around one 8″ side (top) of pocket.  Stitch close to edge of bias tape, joining it to the pocket fabric. Trim ends of bias tape if needed.
11. To finish other edges of pocket, sandwich and stitch bias tape to remaining three edges of pocket fabric, mitering corners as you did with the apron body.  Tuck the edges under before your beginning and ending stitches.
12. Center pocket on lower half of apron and pin in place.
13. Stitch around sides and bottom of pocket, close to edge, leaving top of pocket unstitched and open.
14. Measure 2″ from edge of pocket on one side.  Stitch from top to bottom of pocket, keeping 2″ distance from edge.
That’s it, you are done!
Now you can both enjoy the messes!
For more apron-sewing fun, check out the Mommy & Mia Apron Pattern!

Toddler Bucket Hat Free Pattern

bucket hat free pattern
With this bucket hat free pattern, you can make a 4-In-1 Reversible Toddler Bucket Hat for non-commital types like me (I should clarify that I’m happily married, the non-commital part is just for everything else in my life) :). The pattern is sized 2T/3T, or approximate head circumference of 19″. I’m planning on making pattern pieces for larger and smaller head sizes in the near future, and I’ll be sure to let you know when I add them to the tutorial!

 

Okay, let’s get to work on our 4-In-1 Bucket Hat

Materials:
(affiliate links below)
1/4 yd main fabric
1/4 yd co-ordinating fabric for reverse side of hat
optional: 1/2 yd fusible interfacing if your fabric is lightweight or you want extra stiffness in your hat (1/4 yd needed if interfacing only one side of hat)
Heat n Bond scraps
Pattern pieces – ensure that your printer is not set to scale the document larger or smaller before you print :).
Click here to download the free pattern pieces.
Directions:
Note: All seam allowances are 1/2″.

1. Cut out fabrics and interfacing (optional) as marked on pattern pieces. When cutting interfacing, cut pieces 1/2″ smaller on all sides of pattern pieces.

2. If using interfacing, iron to wrong side of corresponding fabric pieces. For the hat pictured, I chose to interface only one side of the reversible hat (which means I only cut 2 of each piece out of interfacing instead of 4 as marked on the pattern pieces).
3. Prepare your appliques. Apply Heat n Bond to wrong side of fabric (I used a scrap piece of knit for the applique on the printed side of the hat so I could applique with a straight stitch and leave the edges raw) and trace your design (remember to trace it backward if your applique is not symetrical!). Cut out design and iron to right side of one hat band piece on main fabric. You can center the design or place it off center if you’d rather. Stitch around design close to edge.
4. Right sides together, pin and stitch band pieces of main fabric together at sides, matching raw edges. Press seams open.

5. Clip top of hat band every 3/4″. Make sure that your cuts are less than 1/2″ long.

6. Right sides together, pin top edge of band to main fabric crown piece, matching raw edges. To mark the crown piece into quarters before pinning, I like to “finger press” it by folding it in half and then in half again and giving it a good pinch. It saves time and my home-ec teacher in high school even taught me it so it’s totally legit :).

7. Stitch pinned band to crown, stretching the clipped edge to match the curved crown edge as you go. Press seam toward center of crown and turn hat right side out.
8. Pin and stitch brim pieces of main fabric together at sides, matching raw edges. Press seams open.
9. Clip top edge of brim every 1″. Make sure that your cuts are less than 1/2″ long.
10. Right sides together, pin and stitch top of brim to bottom of band, matching raw edges. Press seam open.
11. Assemble reverse side of hat by repeating steps 3-9 with co-ordinating fabric.
12. Right sides together, pin two sides of hat together at bottom rim, matching side seams and raw edges. Stitch pieces together at pinned edge, leaving a 4″ gap for turning the hat right side out.
13. Turn hat right side out, placing one side of hat inside the other. Press bottom edge of brim flat, pressing raw edge of opening under 1/2″. Topstitch near bottom pressed edge around entire brim and again 1/4″ from edge. If you like, you can continue topstitching parallel rows 1/4″ apart to the top of the brim.

14. Let your little one enjoy his or her new hat…

…Or should I say hats?!

bucket hat free pattern
I will be linking to some of these great linky parties!