Refashion Tutorial: Toddler Ruffle Skirt

Description:
It’s time to grab one of those tired t-shirts from your closet. Better yet, grab one from your husband’s closet! This tutorial will guide you through refashioning a t-shirt into a cute ruffly skirt for your little girl. This is an easy project, perfect if you are a beginner sewer or an experienced refashionista! The entire skirt can be completed in less than an hour, which is great because your little princess will be dying to wear it. The most difficult part of this project will be getting her to take the skirt off! Directions given are for size 2T/3T, but can easily be adjusted for a larger or smaller size.

Go here for the 10 minute leg warmers tutorial!

Materials:

1 adult sized t-shirt (mine apparently came out of a laundry basket — clean, I promise)

*If you would like a skirt with a contrast ruffle as pictured, you will need a second t-shirt, which will allow you to make two skirts using the two shirts, both with a contrast ruffle.*
20″ length of 1″wide elastic

Directions:

Cut Body of Skirt
1. Lay t-shirt flat, matching front and back lower hem. Measure 11″ from bottom of shirt and cut parallel to hem (this will give a finished skirt length of 9.5″ — adjust 11″ measurement if a shorter or longer length is desired). The t-shirt hem will remain in tact and be used as the skirt hem, and the side seams will serve as the skirt side seams — doesn’t leave much left for you to have to sew, huh?.

Note: The shirt used in this tutorial is a women’s size medium and approximately 34″ in diameter at the hem. The larger the diameter of the shirt, the fuller the finished skirt will be. If you are using a shirt that is wider at the hem than you want your finished skirt to be, you may want to take in one side seam to your desired width after completing step 1.

Cut Ruffle Strips
2. Using the entire width of the t-shirt, cut 1″ wide strips out of front and back of shirt. Trim off any side seams. You will need approximately 4 strips for each row of ruffles, 12 strips total (amount of strips needed will vary with the amount of gathers you choose).

Note: As is pictured in later steps, you may choose to use fabric from a second t-shirt for a contrasting ruffle. If so, cut 8 strips from your main t-shirt and 4 strips from a second t-shirt.

Sew Ruffles
3. To easily gather your 1″ strips, set your machine at it’s longest stitch length and it’s highest tension setting. This will gather the strip as you sew. Stitch (do not backstitch at beginning or end of stitch) down middle of one strip until you near the last inch of the strip.

4. When nearing the last 1″ of the strip, place another strip 1/2″ from the end of the first strip, overlapping the two. Strips pictured are different widths to illustrate overlap — your strips will be equal in width. Continue stitching down the second strip, attaching the two strips together. When nearing the end of the second strip, attach the 3rd strip the way that you joined the 1st and 2nd strips together. Repeat with the 4th strip. Leave the thread ends long on both ends of your now joined ruffle strips.

Attach Ruffles to Skirt
5. Lay completed ruffle over hem of skirt, ensuring that the length is sufficient to go all the way around the bottom of the skirt. Gently pulling TOP thread only, adjust gathers as needed.

6. Repeat steps 4-5 with 8 remaining 1″ strips, making two more completed ruffles.

7. Beginning at one side seam, align one ruffle parallel to bottom of hem, close to edge. Using normal machine settings, stitch ruffle to skirt, following basting stitch line that you made in step 4. Allow the end of the ruffle to overlap the beginning 1/2″, backstitch, and cut off any excess ruffle.

8. Pin second ruffle 1/4″ above first ruffle and stitch in place as you did the first ruffle.

9. Pin third ruffle 1/4″ above second ruffle and stitch in place as you did the first and second ruffles.

Sew Elastic Waistband
10. Turn top edge of skirt 1.5″ toward wrong side of skirt and pin in place (you may serge top edge of skirt first if desired, but since knits do not fray it’s not necessary). Stitch close to raw edge, forming elastic casing for waistband. Leave a 1″ opening to insert elastic.

11. Insert elastic through casing. Overlap the two ends of elastic 1″ and stitch together using a zigzag stitch. Stitch waistband opening closed.

Admire Your Work!
12. Let your little angel try on her new skirt! Great job!



Make it Yours @ My Backyard Eden


make it wear it
The Girl Creative

Rag Edge Baby Blanket Tutorial

Rag Edge Receiving Blanket

When Wyatt was born my MIL gave me a blanket and burp cloths that were similar to this.  I loved them so much that I made a bunch more burp cloths the same way (I even found the exact same camo fabric that she had used!).  Today I’m sharing a tutorial so you can make your own Rag Edge Baby Blanket too!  They would be great for your own baby or for a gift. I often give one of these blankets paired with an item sewn from one of my favorite free baby patterns, and it’s always a hit with the new or soon to be mom!

 

This tutorial will guide you through the steps to sew your own rag edge receiving blanket.  It is a perfect beginner project, and I promise it will be the simplest receiving blanket you’ll ever make!  It can easily be done from start to finish in less than an hour.  At 40″x40″ when finished, this blanket will be perfect for swaddling your baby as he or she grows and outgrows other smaller receiving blankets.

 

Rag Edge Baby Blanket Tutorial

 

Materials Needed:
1.25 yd flannel fabric
1.25 yd co-ordinating flannel fabric
matching thread

 

Directions:
1. Pre-wash your flannels.  Cut each piece of flannel to a square 40″x40″.  Make sure that the selvage edge is cut off, or that edge will not fray properly when the blanket is finished.
2. Fold each piece of flannel in half into a rectangle, and then in half again into a square.  Stack the two pieces of flannel on top of each other, matching up the 8 free corners.  Using a round bowl or lid as a guide, trace a curved line onto the top layer of the free corners.  Cut along line, forming curved edges.
2. Open up both pieces of fabric and lay flannel squares on top of each other, wrong sides together.  Match up the four sides, and pin in place.  Using a ruler stick, trace a line from each corner to corner, forming an X in the middle of the blanket.  Pin near the X lines to hold the two layers together.  If you’re too lazy to go find a ruler stick like I am, just fold the flannel in half into a triangle, and pin along the folded edge to mark your sewing line.  Next fold the flannel into a triangle using the opposite corners, and again place pins along the folded edge to mark your sewing line.
3. Sew along either your marked lines or your line of pins from each corner to corner, forming an X in the middle of the blanket.
4. Using either a narrow zigzag stitch or a decorative stitch, sew around the entire blanket 0.5″ from the edge.  If using a zigzag stitch as is pictured (for a farm themed blanket I thought it was more appropriate than a decorative stitch), adjust your stitch length to be short enough so that the stitches are fairly close together.  On my sewing machine, I set it at a “1”.  Whichever stitch you choose, just be sure that it will be sturdy.
5. If desired, stitch again around the entire blanket using a co-ordinating thread, 0.25″ in from the first stitch line.  Depending on which type of stitch you use, you might want to skip this second row of stitching.  I thought it would be cute with this particular blanket, but use your own judgement.
6. Now for the fun part… Get out the ol’ scissors and start hacking.  Just kidding, that would be very counterproductive.  Every 0.5″, make a small snip around the edge of the blanket perpendicular to your sewing line.  Clip fairly close to your stitch line, but not through it.
7. Wash and dry the blanket 1 or 2 times to allow the clipped edges to fray.  The best part about this blanket is that it gets better and better with each wash.  Great work, you are done your Rag Edge Baby Blanket!
Rag Edge Receiving Blanket

Ric Rac Receiving Blanket tutorial.

 

Baby blankets are one of my favorite gifts to a new or expecting mom. You can really never have too many! This ric rac receiving blanket tutorial will guide you through making this simple blanket! This project is great for even a beginner, and can be done in less than an hour. The ric rac adds the perfect touch to this easy project!

Description:

This tutorial will guide you through sewing a double layer flannel receiving blanket trimmed with ric rac. You may also use the same directions to make burp cloths. It is a great beginner project, and can be done in less than an hour or so. Let me know if you have any questions!
Supplies:
(affiliate links below)
1.5 yd flannel fabric
Directions:
1. Prewash and dry both pieces of flannel. Cut each piece to 39″x39″. This will give you a finished blanket of 38.5″x38.5,” which is a nice large size, but feel free to adjust it if you would like a smaller blanket. Using a bowl or tupperware lid as a guide (or eye-ball it if you’re lazy like I am), trace and cut the corners of the flannel into rounded corners.

 

2. If you would like to place an applique on your blanket, now is the time. For a great tutorial on how to do an applique, go here.

3. Place ric rac on one piece of flannel so that the middle of the ric rac is 1/4″ from the edge of the fabric. Leaving a 3-4″ piece of ric rac before you start your stitches, sew ric rac to the flannel using a 1/8″ seam allowance. You should be catching the “bottom” curve of the ric rac as you sew. Gently curve the ric rac as you sew around the rounded corners. Note: if you are using extra wide jumbo ric rac (as pictured at top of post) you may want to align the ric rac on the fabric with the curve hanging slightly off the edge of your fabric so your seam allowance doesn’t need to be so large.

4. When you have almost sewn the ric rac around the entire piece of flannel, continue to sew until the end and beginning of ric rac overlap about 3/4″, pulling each tail end of ric rac off to the side of the flannel (see diagram). Trim ends of excess ric rac.

5. Right sides together, place your flannel piece on top of co-ordinating flannel fabric, matching all sides and corners. Pin together. Stitch 1/4″ from edge around all 4 sides of blanket, leaving a 5-6″ opening to allow you to turn the blanket right side out.

6. Turn blanket right side out through the opening you created. Press blanket edges, pulling ric rac outward with your fingers as you press (please don’t burn your hand as I often like to do) to help ensure that the seam is pressed neatly outward. Handstitch the opening where you turned the blanket through.

7. Topstitch around entire blanket, close to edge of flannel.
8. Admire your great work, you are finished!

Card Table Playhouse Tutorialette

Okay, I know that some of you have been requesting a card table playhouse tutorial. Since I basically figured it out as I went, I didn’t take pictures along the way, and since there’s lots of different ways to make the playhouse depending on what you want it to have, I thought we could compromise and I will do a “tutorial-ette”. If I were to do it over again I would also do some things differently, so here are my thoughts and tips for the whole thing.

First, here are some pictures of the inside and outside that I did not post earlier.
Back wall porthole.

Inside back wall (flap covers secret porthole).

Side wall with picture frame. (Every army tent should have pictures from home, right?)

Outside wall.

Side wall with pocket.

Some basic directions to get you going:

  • I used a full sized sheet set for the fabric. It was enough for everything other than the roof, for which I just used a brown broadcloth. I lined the entire playhouse, but my friend Jenn made one with a heavier fabric that was not lined and I think she said she used almost 4 yards of 60″ wide fabric. Please correct me if I’m wrong, Jenn!
  • Very important: know what size of card table you will be using before you sew the playhouse. I made this mistake (Google has never led me wrong before). Apparently the cheaper tables at Walmart and Target are closer to 34″ around the top instead of the 36″ that more expensive tables tend to be. Luckily I figured this out before I had the sides sewn to the roof so I just had to take them all in an inch.
  • Measure the top and side lengths and widths of the table and add one inch to each measurement. For example, my table was 34″x34″ on the roof and 34″x29″ on the sides. I cut (or should have cut, if I knew my correct dimensions before I started cutting and sewing) one 35″x35″ piece for the roof and 4 35″x30″ pieces for the walls. Remember you will need to also cut those pieces out of your lining fabric if you choose to line the playhouse. Adding the one inch will allow you 1/2″ seams.
  • After you cut your pieces out, complete each wall with any embellishments you wish before you sew the walls together. Cut out your windows and door, add your curtains and door panel, and any pockets. Otherwise you’ll later be working with a lot of fabric at once. The only exception to this rule that I used is that I did not finish the window openings with bias tape until the very end so that it would be a cleaner finish.
  • Once your walls are individually completed, you can sew the 4 walls together at the side seams. Note: if you are lining the playhouse, do not sew the lining walls together exactly the same as the outside. The two walls adjacent to the front wall need to be reversed. Otherwise when you sew the lining to the outside walls those two walls will be switched. I know that sounds confusing, just trust me, once again I learned that tip by my own error :). It will make more sense when you read about how to sew the lining to the outside.
  • Next sew the side seams to the roof. I rounded the corners on the roof slightly so they would sit nicer on the card table and not poke out. If you are not lining the project, you can hem the bottom of the playhouse and you should be done. Remember that without lining you will want to make sure your edges are finished nicely since they’ll be visible from the inside of the playhouse.
  • If lining the playhouse, after the roof and wall are sewn together, match the two pieces wrong sides together. Stitch around the entire bottom raw edge (I also stiched around the door opening that I had cut out), leaving a 8-12″ opening. Trim around any corners and pull the right sides through the opening, turning everything right side out. Press around the lower edge and topstitch around the entire bottom and door opening. If you decide to finish the windows with bias tape, you can do this now. If you have square windows, it is a lot easier to iron the corners into the bias tape before sewing it onto the playhouse rather than as you go.
  • Wow, that all sounded like it should have been a lot faster than it was when I actually made the playhouse.

Some other thoughts:

  • If I were to make another one, I would consider using a heavier twill or denim and skipping the lining. The nice thing about having it lined is any pockets or embellishments that you sew on the inside will not show stitch lines on the outside. I guess the ideal thing would be to use heavier fabric and line it as well, but it would definately cost a lot more to do.
  • My SIL made one that makes me hate the one I made. Although I can say I did give her some ideas, she really took them to the next level and made an adorable playhouse! You gotta look at hers if you want to make a cute one. And if you do please send me the link. Anyway, she had the thought to put clear vinyl in the windows. The reason for this is that if your children are pretty young still like Wyatt is, they prefer to use the windows as doors instead of the actual door. Plus, they can hang on the window and have more fun, so why would they use the door?! The vinyl would prevent this from happening but still let light in. Just an idea.

Nursing Cover Tutorial

nursing cover tutorial
With all of my babies, my nursing cover was one of my most-used and most appreciated items. They make the perfect gift for a new mom, and can be whipped up in no time!

Description:
A stylish and practical nursing cover. The dimensions are slightly larger than most nursing covers, which gives added coverage and less chance of someone getting an uninvited sneak peek!

You will need:
1.25 yd fabric (home décor weight works best)
16” boning – in fabric casing – can be found in local fabric shops or online here (affiliate link)
2 D-rings – 1.25”-1.5” – these 1.5″ D-rings (affiliate link) are my favorite to use

Fabric pieces to cut:
·
one rectangle 28”x40” for main body
· one strip 4.25”x10” for neck strap
· one strip 4.25”x26” for neck strap

Directions:
1. First we will complete the neck straps… Take 4.25”x10” strip of fabric and fold in half lengthwise right sides together. Stitch ¼” from edge along raw edges, forming a tube. Repeat with longer strip, but sew a curve towards the inner fold when you are reaching the last few inches of the strip. Trim seam allowance around curve close to the stitching line.

2. Turn each piece right side out and press flat with the seam going down the center of the strap. Topstitch ¼” from each edge on both straps.

3. Place shorter strap through D-rings, matching up raw edges. Stitch as close to the D-rings as possible, encasing them between the two layers of the strap.

4. On to the main body of the nursing cover… With your main body rectangle of fabric, fold and press upper edge (if your fabric has a definite pattern, ensure you know which side should be at the top!) ½” toward wrong side of fabric. This should be your 40” long edge. Fold and press again ½”.

5. Open up the folded edge and center the boning along the raw edge (I used black boning for demonstration purposes), with the boning curving away from you (sounds more confusing that it is… now’s a good time to take a look at the picture below). There should be 12” of the pressed edge on either side of the boning. Pin boning in place.

6. Stitch along upper edge of boning casing (depending on your boning, your stitching may need to be nearer the top edge). Stitch at either end of boning casing, ensuring that boning is completely covered by the casing. If needed, first trim 1/8” off of each boning end (plastic only, not the casing) to allow casing to completely cover the boning. This will assure OCD people like me that the boning will not move or poke through the casing or your fabric.

7. Allow the upper edge of fabric to fold over again the way it was pressed. With the right sides facing toward you, take each neck strap and tuck under folded edge, centering each strap at the edge of each end of boning. Pin in place. Stitch along lower edge of fold.

8. Press neck straps upward, away from the main body. Stitch along upper edge of main body, backstitching at edges of straps, securing neck straps in their final and upward position.

9. Fold and press lower edge of nursing cover ½”, fold another ½” and press again as was done with the upper edge. Stitch close to folded edge. Repeat with raw side edges.

Note: If you would like to add an interior pocket that can also be used as a burp cloth, simply cut a right-angle triangle piece of terry towel or chenille the size you would like your pocket to be, allowing enough fabric for a hem on the top edge. Hem the top edge, sandwich the raw edges of the triangle between one lower side and the bottom pressed edges before they have been stitched, and stitch the pocket right into place while you sew the bottom and side edge. I have personally never needed a pocket because it seems I always have a big diaper bag with me anyway and a separate burp cloth, but it’s a simple step to add if you think you might like one!

10. Thread the long strap through the front of the D-rings and back out again through one on the underside.

11. You are done, great job!

Give it away as a gift or keep it for yourself!