Infant Peasant Dress Free Pattern and Tutorial

peasant dress free pattern

Doesn’t every baby girl need a dress that’s just as sweet as she is? Today I’m sharing this FREE Infant Peasant Dress pattern!

Infant Peasant Dress Free Pattern

This simple peasant dress pattern is sized 0-3m (approximately 8-12lbs), and is an easy project that is great for all sewing abilities, even beginners. The elastic neckline makes for an easy on and off, keeping both you and your little one smiling :).

We shared some of our favorite free baby dress patterns, but this is definitely at the top of our list! Add in some cute burp cloths, cozy footed baby pants (this knee patch baby pants pattern that you can cut with your Cricut Maker is darling too!), and you have the perfect gift.

Infant Peasant Dress Free Pattern

This is one of my very favorite DIY baby gifts to make, and it’s even more fun when you make a matching DIY scrunchie for the mom! It’s always such a happy surprise that she loves!

Update: After many requests, the multi-sized pattern is now available in the shop! The Polly Peasant Dress & Blouse PDF Pattern has 10 sizes (0-3m to 6) and features the option for a dainty scalloped hem. You can find it HERE!

Materials:
*affiliate links below*
3/4 yd 100% quilting cotton fabric (45” wide)
1/4″ wide elastic – approximately 30” – Tip: I love to buy large rolls of elastic like these
– it saves a ton of money, and you rarely have to worry about running out when you want to make a last minute gift!
optional: rick rack for trim hem (40″ in length)

Click HERE to download pattern pieces for the free infant sized pattern. Follow the checkout process (no payment info will be asked for), and once that’s complete you’ll automatically be emailed the download link (be sure to check your junk mail if you don’t see it in your inbox and that you spelled your email address correctly)!

 

New in 2019: Learn to sew this baby peasant dress with our new detailed video tutorial below, or click here to watch it on our YouTube channel!

 

Instructions:

*All seam allowances to be 3/8″ unless otherwise noted.*

1. Print pattern pieces. Make sure your printer is set to print at 100% and not to scale the file down in size. Lay out fabric with both selvage edges folded in to center of fabric (creating two folded edges – on on each side with the selvages in the middle of the fabric) and right side inward. Cut out fabric pieces as directed on pattern pieces. If you prefer a plain hem rather than rick rack trim, add an extra 1/4-1/2″ to the bottom of the bodice pattern. The length of the dress is designed to hit at or just above the knee so it can be worn with tights or legwarmers, so feel free to add some extra length if you wish to make it longer!

2. Right sides together, pin and stitch one sleeve piece at curve to armhole curve on one bodice piece.

3. Right sides together, pin and stitch remaining sleeve piece at curve to remaining curve on bodice piece.
4. Serge or zig zag raw edges and press seams (technically seams should always be pressed toward the bodice, but I pressed them toward the sleeves so take your pick).
5. Right sides together, pin and stitch remaining curve on sleeves to armhole curves of remaining bodice piece. Serge or zig zag raw edges and press seams.
6. If using a serger, serge bottom of each sleeve, removing ¼” of fabric. If not using a serger, press bottom of each sleeve ¼” toward wrong side of fabric.
7. Press bottom of each sleeve ½” toward wrong side (if not using serger the bottom of each sleeve will now have two folds). You can do this step after you sew the side seams in step 9 if you wish, but pressing them now gives more room to work with and I personally find it easier.

8. If using a serger, serge around neckline, removing ¼” of fabric. If not using a serger, press top of neckline ¼” toward wrong side of fabric. Press neckline ½” toward wrong side (if not using serger the neckline will now have two folds).

9. Right sides together, stitch dress together at each side from bottom of dress through folded edge of sleeve, unfolding pressed edge on sleeve. Serge or zig zag raw side seams and press seams.
10. Fold each sleeve back along pressed edge and stitch close serged/folded edge of fabric, forming a casing for elastic and leaving a small opening (it’ll be a bit tricky to maneuver around your sewing machine so take your time and it’ll turn out great).

11. Stitch close to serged/pressed edge of fabric at neckline, forming a casing for elastic and leaving a small opening.

12. Cut 2 pieces of elastic, each 7″ in length. On each sleeve, insert elastic through opening using a safety pin and stitch ends together using a zig zag stitch, overlapping elastic ½” on each end. Note: 7″ of elastic will allow for a chubby baby’s arm circumference. If after inserting your elastic it looks a bit loose for your baby, you may want to trim 1/2″-1″ off the elastic before stitching the ends together.

13. Stitch opening closed on each sleeve.
14. Cut 12” length of elastic. Insert elastic through opening using a safety pin and stitch ends together using a zig zag stitch, overlapping elastic ½” on each end. Stitch opening closed.
 
15. Serge bottom hem of dress, removing ¼” of fabric, or press hem ¼” toward wrong side of fabric (if you’re adding rick rack to the hem you’ll also want to zig zag stitch the raw edge before pressing it).
If not sewing rick rack trim at hem: Press hem another ½” toward wrong side of fabric. Stitch close to folded edge around entire hem of dress.
16. For rick rack trim, align outer scalloped edge of rick rack with bottom edge of dress and stitch around entire circumference of bottom of dress down center of rick rack. Overlap rick rack at beginning and end and trim excess.

17. Press rick rack to wrong side of fabric, leaving one scalloped edge exposed on right side of dress. Topstitch close to edge of fabric around entire hem of dress.

Great job, you are done!

Infant Peasant Dress Free Pattern
Be sure to share your finished dresses on Instagram and tag me (@sewmuchado)!

Gathered Car Seat Canopy Tutorial

When Weston was born two and a half years ago, car seat canopys were just coming into existence. It’s funny how almost every infant car seat I see now at Walmart or the gym has a canopy. I remember when nursing covers were the same way too, a brand new idea that became a staple for any new nursing mom.

I know what you’re thinking… I have two sons, who are well past the age of infant car seat. But, I have two sisters that are both due to have babies in March, and I’m taking my chances that at least one of them will have a girl. Between the two of them, their last four babies have all been boys, so it’s not too bad of a gamble, right?!
I’ve had this idea for a car seat canopy in my mind for months, and when Material Girls tweeted that they just got Sandi Henderson’s Secret Garden line in, there was no decision to be made :). It was done.
First off, there are about a million car seat canopy tutorials in blogland, and they’re great. I’m not one to try and re-invent the wheel, but there’s a few tricks to adding the gathers, which I guessed I’d get questions about, so I thought a tutorial would be the best way to go, showing the step by step process.
Let’s get started…

Materials:

1 1/2 yd main fabric (100% quilting cotton recommended)
1 1/2 yd coordinating fabric (100% quilting cotton recommended)

4″ sew in velcro (3/4″-1″ wide)

5 yd rick rack – 1 3/8″ wide was used in this tutorial (optional)


Pieces to Cut:

From main fabric:
     see step 1 to begin instructions for cutting gathered panels

     straps: 2 pieces 2 1/2″x8″

From coordinating fabric:
     reverse of canopy: 36″x42″
     center strip on top of canopy: 7″x36″

     straps: 2 pieces 2 1/2″x8″
Velcro:
     from both hook and loop sides: 2 pieces 1 3/4″ long
Instructions:

1. First, we’ll make our pattern that we’ll use to cut our pieces for the gathered panels. Remember that each car seat is shaped a bit differently, so it’s best to have your car seat on hand to measure before you cut your top panel pieces, and please make adjustments as needed. The first few steps are the trickiest if you’re new to pattern design, so hang in there and you’ll be golden! If you read through the steps before getting started, that should help as well to visualize what we’re doing.

The finished size of our canopy will be 35 1/2″x41 1/2″. Most car seats will need the panel where the top of the car seat is to be shorter than the panel that covers the bottom portion of the car seat. I took a 42″ blanket and determined that I needed 4 extra inches from the handle to the bottom than from the handle to the top of the car seat. Using newspaper, make a rectangle that is 36″x20 1/2″, which will be the pattern for the bottom gathered panel. The pattern for the top gathered panel will need to be 36″x16 1/2″, but you can just use the larger pattern and cut it down to 16 1/2″ after you’ve used it for the 20 1/2″ piece.

Here’s a couple examples of an adjustment to the pattern: If you measure your car seat and decide you want the bottom panel only 2″ longer that the top panel, you’ll need your bottom panel pattern to be 36″x19 1/2″ and your top panel pattern to be 36″x17 1/2″. If you want a 3″ difference, subtract 1 1/2″ from 18 1/2″ and add 1 1/2″ to 18 1/2″. Basically, whatever difference you need between the top and bottom panels, divide that number by 2, and then subtract that number from 18 1/2″, and then add it to 18 1/2″ to get your new measurements. Feel free to ask questions if that’s still confusing :).

2. Cut slits approximately 2″ apart across the widest side of the pattern, leaving 1″ uncut along the opposite side. Sorry, Rudolf :(…

3. Place the 36″x20 1/2″ pattern on your main fabric. If you’re fabric is directional, you’ll want the side with open slits toward the top of your print. Pin the middle strip to the center of fabric at the top and bottom, and then gently curve the bottom (where you did not cut), and pin the bottom corners. To get the most gathers for the width of the fabric, pin the tops of the outermost strips to the edge of the fabric, making sure the strips are as straight as possible. You’ll notice that the bottom curve of the pattern will buckle a bit, but that’s fine. Spread the remaining strips, pinning so they have fairly equal spaced between each one.
If your fabric is non-directional, you can even turn the pattern piece 90 degrees and spread the slits out even farther apart, which will give room for fuller gathers.
Note: Wonder why all this fuss to make our gathered panels? Remember that we only want gathers where the main fabric meets the center contrast strip, but not at the top or bottom ends of the canopy. If we were to simply add width to the piece, we’d have the extra width at the top and bottom of the canopy as well. With this technique, the bottom and side measurements will remain the same, but we’ll have added fullness to the top “outward” curve, which will give us room to gather that edge. Now that you know the method, you can use the same steps to add gathers or fullness to any pattern piece – it works great on shirts and skirts, and is the same method I used to create the flounce on the bodice and hem in this dress!

4. Cut along pattern edges, forming a gentle curve around the top and bottom of the strips.
5. To cut the top gathered panel, you have a couple of options. You can take your pattern and cut it down to 16 1/2″, removing 4″ off the top of each strip, and repeat steps 3-4. Or you can use your bottom panel fabric piece, fold it in half, and use it as a pattern to cut the top gathered panel. If you cut the top panel the same as the bottom panel, you can just trim 4″ off of the outward curve afterwards and it is a big time saver. Remember that this time the outward curve should be at the bottom of the print if it’s directional (opposite as with the bottom gathered panel).
6. Phew! You’re through the worst of it! It’ll be smooth sailing from here… Sew two lines of basting or gathering stitches along the outward curve of the bottom panel, at 3/8″ and 5/8″.

7. Gather the outward curve to approximately 36″, and pin to one side of center contrast strip, right sides together, and adjusting gathers.

8. Using a 1/2″ seam allowance, stitch along pinned edge. Use a seam ripper to remove 5/8″ basting stitch that is visible on right side of fabric.

9. Press seam allowance toward center contrast strip and topstitch 1/4″ from seam.
10. Repeat steps 7-9 with top panel piece. This will now be our canopy top piece.
This is a good time to check the general fit with your car seat and adjust anything if necessary.
11. Fold canopy top piece in half and half again, matching the 4 corners. Using a large plate, trace a curve onto the corners and cut.
12. Repeat step 11 with canopy bottom piece (coordinating fabric).
13. Next we’ll add our rick rack detail (if you’re not using rick rack, skip to step 15). Align the inner curve of the rick rack along one raw edge of your canopy bottom piece as pictured, and sew (use a basting stitch) onto all 4 sides of fabric using a 1/8″ seam allowance, and leaving a 2″ tail at the beginning. You can adjust the 1/8″ seam allowance and placement of the rick rack depending on how much you’d like to show on your finished canopy, but 1/8″ worked well for me.

14. Allow end of rick rack to overlap beginning tail, and trim excess.

15. Right sides together, pin canopy top piece to canopy bottom piece, matching raw edges and curved corners. You may trim the excess rick rack first if desired, but I like to leave it as is to add a little bulk and weight to the sides of the canopy.

16. Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, stitch around all four sides of pinned pieces, leaving a 6″ opening on one side.

17. Turn canopy right side out through opening. Press sides flat and topstitich as desired around entire canopy, close to edge, enclosing opening.
18. Right sides together, pin one main fabric strap piece to coordinating fabric strap piece. Stitch around all four sides using a 1/4″ seam allowance, leaving a small opening. Trim corners.
19. Turn strap right side out through opening and press flat. Topstitch around entire strap, close to edge, enclosing opening. Topstitch again around strap if desired.
20. Repeat with remaining strap pieces.
21. Place velcro pieces close to ends of each strap (make sure to sew vecro pieces to opposite sides of strap as pictured so it will make a loop when attached), and stitch around edges. Stitch an “x” from corner to corner to add stability.
22. Measure width of canopy to find exact center point of contrast strip (will be 17 3/4″ in from each side if you used the seam allowances mentioned). Measure approximately 3″ from center point to each side and pin straps in place (double check with your car seat handle that 6″ apart is best).
23. Stitch each strap in place as pictured, forming a rectangle approximately 1 3/4″ wide and 1 1/2″ long on each strap. Stitch an “x” from corner to corner to add stability.
Great job, you are done! Try your canopy on your car seat and enjoy keeping your baby safe and sound from… well it’s probably a long list, so I’ll leave it at just enjoy :).
Remember to keep your baby ventilated when using the canopy, and always keep a close eye. Just sayin…

Picnic Placemat Tote Tutorial


I shared this tutorial at Brassy Apple last week for her Save Our Summer series, so if you missed it, here’s the entire tutorial!

I don’t know about you, but when I think of summer, I think of picnics. As a mom of two boys, as soon as summer hits, we eat a lot of our meals outside. Whether we’re spending a day at the park, or just hanging out in our backyard, I’ll jump at any chance to have a picnic! The mess stays outside, the kids are happy, and I’m happy!
And, what picnic would be complete without a Picnic Platemat Tote for your kids to carry?! It doubles as both a tote for your kids to carry their plate, utensils, and napkins, and a placemat for them to eat on. It means less for you to pack and carry, and your kids will love packing and carrying their own personalized tote. If it gets dirty (not that that would ever happen with my kids…), no worries – it’s machine washable and your kids will love using it over and over again.
Let’s get started…
Materials Needed:
3/4 yd 45″ wide quilting cotton (or home decor weight fabric)
2/3 yd lightweight fusible interfacing (woven or non-woven)

Pieces to Cut:
From Quilting Cotton:
Exterior and interior of tote: 10″x23″ – cut 2
Interior pockets: 10″x19″ – cut 2 – the pockets are designed to fit up to an 8″ plate and average sized utensils, but feel free to adjust the 19″ measurement as needed
Handles: 10″x4″ – cut 2
Cotton scraps (or knit or wool felt) – to applique initial if desired

From Interfacing:

9″x22″ – cut 2

Instructions:

1. For each 10″x23″ piece, center 9″x22″ piece of interfacing over wrong side of fabric and fuse with iron.

2. Press each pocket piece in half, matching 10″ sides. Topstitch 1/4″ from each folded edge.

3. Fold interior piece in half (matching 10″ sides) and lightly press (I like to finger press, which is exactly what it sounds like — take your finger, and press firmly along folded edge to form a crease in the fabric). Place raw edges of one pocket piece 3/4″ from middle crease of interior piece, matching side raw edges with sides of interior piece. Pocket piece should lay over center crease as pictured — if your center crease is still visible, place the pocket piece raw edges 3/4″ on the opposite side of the crease. Make sense? Stitch 1/4″ from raw edge of pocket piece, attaching it to interior piece.

4. Flip pocket piece in opposite direction as it’s laying and press flat along seam. Topstitch 1/4″ from folded edge where pocket piece is joined to interior piece.

5. Repeat steps 3-5 with remaining pocket piece and exterior piece.
6. Stitch along each long side of interior piece and pocket pieces, 1/4″ from edge, to secure pockets in place.

7. One pocket is designed to fit up to an 8″ plate, and will be left as is. The opposite pocket will be used to old utensils, napkins, or whatever else your little ones decide to throw in! Use forks and spoons that your kids commonly use to measure the width for your utensil pockets — make sure to account for 3/4″ seam allowance on the outer edges while measuring. Mark your desired widths with pins or a disappearing ink pen.
8. Stitch from top of pocket to bottom of pocket where you have marked, forming utensil pockets.
Note: if your child uses only toddler-sized utensils which are fairly short, you may want to sew across the bottom of one or more utensil pockets to shorten it and prevent their utensils from getting lost in the pocket :).

9. Fold one strap piece in half lengthwise and press.

10. Open up fold and press each 10″ long raw edge to center.

11. Fold strap back in half and press again.
12. Topstitch along each long side of strap, 1/8″ from edge.
13. Repeat steps 9-12 with remaining strap piece.
14. Pin each end of one strap to interior piece, with outer edges of strap 3″ from long edge of interior piece. Stitch straps in place, 1/4″ from edge. The right side of your fabric will look like this:
15. Cut out initial and applique onto exterior piece as desired. I used wool felt – it’s handy having a “Wyatt” and a “Weston” when it comes to personalizing things with an inital :). Kind of a two-for-one (which I realize probably defeats the purpose of personalizing things for them, but whatever works)!

Note: I didn’t use any snaps, velcro, or other closure for this tote. My pockets fit the plate and utensils snugly enough that I’m not concerned about anything falling out, but if you’d like to add a snap or velcro, now would be the time to add them. Center each side of the snap or velcro along each end of the interior piece and about 1-1.5″ from the raw edge.
16. Right sides together, pin interior piece to exterior piece, ensuring handles are both tucked neatly toward the center. Using a 1/2″ seam allowance, stitch around all 4 sides, leaving a 4-5″ opening on one long side.

17. Clip all 4 corners and turn tote right side out through opening.

18. Press flat (and press opening raw edges 1/2″ toward wrong side) and topstitch around all 4 sides, 1/4″ from edge. Topstitch again 1/8″ from edge on all 4 sides.

Congratulations, you are done!

Now go grab some sunshine…

Pack a picnic…

And let your kids enjoy their own personalized picnic placemats!

Free Kids Apron Pattern

the little apron free pattern
Whether they’re “helping” us cook, learning to become future Divinci’s, or just having a good time getting their hands in whatever they can at the moment, one thing’s for sure.  Kids get dirty.  As I made this apron recently, I was really surprised at the lack of free toddler and child apron patterns that are available online.  Off to work I went, and I’m so excited to share The Little Apron Free Pattern with you! You and your kids will love this free kids apron pattern!

Description:
The Little Apron is a simple and easy project that can easily completed in less than an hour.  The pattern is sized for toddler/child 3-7, but can be easily adjusted for smaller or larger sizes.  Please remember this pattern is for personal use only.

Materials:
3/4 yd fabric (quilting cotton or home decor weight fabric recommended)
8″x5″ contrasting fabric scrap for pocket
2 packages of extra wide double fold bias tape

Pieces to Cut:
Fabric: main body of apron from pattern piece (click on link below)
Contrasting fabric: 8″x5″ piece for pocket
Bias Tape: pieces in the following lengths: 7″, 8″, 18″, 37″, 53″ (cut 2)

 

Instructions:

Note: When sewing with bias tape, keep in mind that one side is folded narrower than the other.  Always sew with the narrow side on top, ensuring that the bottom folded side (the wider side) will be caught by the stitches.  It is also important to ensure that the fabric is sandwiched into the fold of the bias tape as snugly as possible.

1. Sandwich 7″ length of bias tape around top of apron.  Stitch bias tape to apron close to folded edge.  Trim any excess bias tape (you will usually be left with a bit of extra bias tape to trim off since it stretches as you sew).

2. Sandwich 37″ length of bias tape around one straight side of apron (leaving curved edges).  Begin topstitching, and stop when you reach the first corner (which will be the bottom corner of apron).  To make a nice mitered corner, lift the presser foot and remove the fabric, trimming the threads (second mitered corner is pictured in the next few steps).

3. Open the bias tape up and bring back down toward next side of apron.

4. Allow bias tape to fold in half as it originally was, sandwiching the fabric again between the tape.

5. Pin bias tape in place and begin stitching at diagonal fold.

6. Continue stitching bias tape to fabric along bottom and other straight side of apron, mitering second corner same as the first.

7. Mark 18″ from the end of one 53″ piece of bias tape.  At the 18″ mark, begin sandwiching and pinning bias tape around one curved edge of apron, starting at the top of the apron.  You will be left with approximately 24″ of bias tape free at the end.

8. Beginning at top free end of bias tape, topstitch close to edge of bias tape.  If you’d like, you can turn the raw edge under before beginning your stitches, but since bias tape does not tend to fray, it’s not necessary.  Backstitch once or twice when you reach the fabric, and continue sewing, stitching the bias tape to the apron along the curved edge.  Backstitch again when you reach the end of the curved edge, and continue stitching to the end of the bias tape.

9. Repeat with other curved side of apron.  Although you can pin the bias tape to the fabric the same as you did the first curved side, you will have to begin stitching from the opposite end of the bias tape (that will be the waist tie) instead of the neck tie end.

10. For the pocket, sandwich 8″ length of bias tape around one 8″ side (top) of pocket.  Stitch close to edge of bias tape, joining it to the pocket fabric. Trim ends of bias tape if needed.
11. To finish other edges of pocket, sandwich and stitch bias tape to remaining three edges of pocket fabric, mitering corners as you did with the apron body.  Tuck the edges under before your beginning and ending stitches.
12. Center pocket on lower half of apron and pin in place.
13. Stitch around sides and bottom of pocket, close to edge, leaving top of pocket unstitched and open.
14. Measure 2″ from edge of pocket on one side.  Stitch from top to bottom of pocket, keeping 2″ distance from edge.
That’s it, you are done!
Now you can both enjoy the messes!
For more apron-sewing fun, check out the Mommy & Mia Apron Pattern!

Tutorial: Sleeved Toddler Bib

If you’re coming over from Inspire to Create at Sew Chic and Unique, welcome!  I’m excited to be a part of such a fun event!

I’ve literally been using the same three bibs for my kids since Wyatt was about 1.  He’s now 3.  And Weston’s now 1.  Everytime I look at those bibs, I can’t believe that I’m still using them and feel guilty that I haven’t gotten around to making some new ones.  The velcro doesn’t stick very good anymore, and since Weston’s favorite dinner-time activity is to rip the bib off and throw it on the floor (I know all you moms can feel my pain, right?), it’s finally time for a change :).

I remember my mom making bibs out of hand towels for all the grandkids to wear, and I’ve tweaked that idea a bit to add “sleeves” and an optional pocket to the bibs.  They’re easy, they’re fast to make, and the best part is that they work!

So go and find yourself some hand towels, and let’s get started!

Materials:
hand towel (the larger the better — I found the white one pictured in these instructions at Ikea for a whopping 50 cents — places like Ross and TJ Maxx are great too)
knit scraps (rib knit works best) – cut a 12″x3″ piece

Instructions:

1. Using a bowl or other object approximately 5-6″ in diameter, trace a circle in the middle of the towel, 6″ from one end.  I know, white is not a smart choice for a bib, but I had the towel on hand (obviously shoved in my sewing stash), so I thought I’d use it as a tester :).

2. Place knit right sides together, matching short ends, and stitch in place using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

3. Turn knit right side out and fold in half , matching raw edges.

4. Baste raw edges together.  This will be the collar.

5. Mark middle of collar by folding in half at seam.  Use these marks to evenly pin collar to circle, with the folded edge towards the outer edges of the bib.


6. Stitch collar to towel, keeping your stitch line just outside of your traced circle.

7. Carefully cut away inner circle of towel.  Note: If you have a serger, you can leave a little excess towel seam allowance.  If you do not have a serger, cut the towel seam allowance to match the collar seam allowance.

8. Finish inside collar seam allowance by serging raw edges or using a zig zag stitch.

9. To form sleeves, turn bib front toward bib back, folding at the mid-point of the collar.  Stitch lines approximately 1″ long along side edge on each side of bib back to secure sleeve openings.

10. To form optional pocket, fold bottom edge of front side of bib upward approximately 3-4″.  Stitch in place along edges of bib.  Note: As pictured, you may need to stitch 3/4″ or so in from edge if the fabric along the edge is too thick to stitch through.

Make a few — your kids will love not having a scratchy plastic bib on their necks.

…And you’ll love the bib staying on your little ones :).

I’ll be linking to some of these fabulous linky parties!