Tutorial: Sleeved Toddler Bib

If you’re coming over from Inspire to Create at Sew Chic and Unique, welcome!  I’m excited to be a part of such a fun event!

I’ve literally been using the same three bibs for my kids since Wyatt was about 1.  He’s now 3.  And Weston’s now 1.  Everytime I look at those bibs, I can’t believe that I’m still using them and feel guilty that I haven’t gotten around to making some new ones.  The velcro doesn’t stick very good anymore, and since Weston’s favorite dinner-time activity is to rip the bib off and throw it on the floor (I know all you moms can feel my pain, right?), it’s finally time for a change :).

I remember my mom making bibs out of hand towels for all the grandkids to wear, and I’ve tweaked that idea a bit to add “sleeves” and an optional pocket to the bibs.  They’re easy, they’re fast to make, and the best part is that they work!

So go and find yourself some hand towels, and let’s get started!

hand towel (the larger the better — I found the white one pictured in these instructions at Ikea for a whopping 50 cents — places like Ross and TJ Maxx are great too)
knit scraps (rib knit works best) – cut a 12″x3″ piece


1. Using a bowl or other object approximately 5-6″ in diameter, trace a circle in the middle of the towel, 6″ from one end.  I know, white is not a smart choice for a bib, but I had the towel on hand (obviously shoved in my sewing stash), so I thought I’d use it as a tester :).

2. Place knit right sides together, matching short ends, and stitch in place using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

3. Turn knit right side out and fold in half , matching raw edges.

4. Baste raw edges together.  This will be the collar.

5. Mark middle of collar by folding in half at seam.  Use these marks to evenly pin collar to circle, with the folded edge towards the outer edges of the bib.

6. Stitch collar to towel, keeping your stitch line just outside of your traced circle.

7. Carefully cut away inner circle of towel.  Note: If you have a serger, you can leave a little excess towel seam allowance.  If you do not have a serger, cut the towel seam allowance to match the collar seam allowance.

8. Finish inside collar seam allowance by serging raw edges or using a zig zag stitch.

9. To form sleeves, turn bib front toward bib back, folding at the mid-point of the collar.  Stitch lines approximately 1″ long along side edge on each side of bib back to secure sleeve openings.

10. To form optional pocket, fold bottom edge of front side of bib upward approximately 3-4″.  Stitch in place along edges of bib.  Note: As pictured, you may need to stitch 3/4″ or so in from edge if the fabric along the edge is too thick to stitch through.

Make a few — your kids will love not having a scratchy plastic bib on their necks.

…And you’ll love the bib staying on your little ones :).

I’ll be linking to some of these fabulous linky parties!

Toddler Bucket Hat Free Pattern

bucket hat free pattern
With this bucket hat free pattern, you can make a 4-In-1 Reversible Toddler Bucket Hat for non-commital types like me (I should clarify that I’m happily married, the non-commital part is just for everything else in my life) :). The pattern is sized 2T/3T, or approximate head circumference of 19″. I’m planning on making pattern pieces for larger and smaller head sizes in the near future, and I’ll be sure to let you know when I add them to the tutorial!


Okay, let’s get to work on our 4-In-1 Bucket Hat

(affiliate links below)
1/4 yd main fabric
1/4 yd co-ordinating fabric for reverse side of hat
optional: 1/2 yd fusible interfacing if your fabric is lightweight or you want extra stiffness in your hat (1/4 yd needed if interfacing only one side of hat)
Heat n Bond scraps
Pattern pieces – ensure that your printer is not set to scale the document larger or smaller before you print :).
Click here to download the free pattern pieces.
Note: All seam allowances are 1/2″.

1. Cut out fabrics and interfacing (optional) as marked on pattern pieces. When cutting interfacing, cut pieces 1/2″ smaller on all sides of pattern pieces.

2. If using interfacing, iron to wrong side of corresponding fabric pieces. For the hat pictured, I chose to interface only one side of the reversible hat (which means I only cut 2 of each piece out of interfacing instead of 4 as marked on the pattern pieces).
3. Prepare your appliques. Apply Heat n Bond to wrong side of fabric (I used a scrap piece of knit for the applique on the printed side of the hat so I could applique with a straight stitch and leave the edges raw) and trace your design (remember to trace it backward if your applique is not symetrical!). Cut out design and iron to right side of one hat band piece on main fabric. You can center the design or place it off center if you’d rather. Stitch around design close to edge.
4. Right sides together, pin and stitch band pieces of main fabric together at sides, matching raw edges. Press seams open.

5. Clip top of hat band every 3/4″. Make sure that your cuts are less than 1/2″ long.

6. Right sides together, pin top edge of band to main fabric crown piece, matching raw edges. To mark the crown piece into quarters before pinning, I like to “finger press” it by folding it in half and then in half again and giving it a good pinch. It saves time and my home-ec teacher in high school even taught me it so it’s totally legit :).

7. Stitch pinned band to crown, stretching the clipped edge to match the curved crown edge as you go. Press seam toward center of crown and turn hat right side out.
8. Pin and stitch brim pieces of main fabric together at sides, matching raw edges. Press seams open.
9. Clip top edge of brim every 1″. Make sure that your cuts are less than 1/2″ long.
10. Right sides together, pin and stitch top of brim to bottom of band, matching raw edges. Press seam open.
11. Assemble reverse side of hat by repeating steps 3-9 with co-ordinating fabric.
12. Right sides together, pin two sides of hat together at bottom rim, matching side seams and raw edges. Stitch pieces together at pinned edge, leaving a 4″ gap for turning the hat right side out.
13. Turn hat right side out, placing one side of hat inside the other. Press bottom edge of brim flat, pressing raw edge of opening under 1/2″. Topstitch near bottom pressed edge around entire brim and again 1/4″ from edge. If you like, you can continue topstitching parallel rows 1/4″ apart to the top of the brim.

14. Let your little one enjoy his or her new hat…

…Or should I say hats?!

bucket hat free pattern
I will be linking to some of these great linky parties!

Felt Flash Cards / Memory Game Free Pattern


felt flashcards free pattern
Do you love having flash cards for your little ones but hate that they always end up looking like this (actual flash card box from my house — the big question is why I hadn’t thrown it away)?

I’ve had this idea on my mind forever.  It started with me wanting to make Wyatt a quiet book for the last two and a half years.  Let’s just say it hasn’t happened yet.  Then I started thinking that by the time I get one made for him, he’ll be too old for it.  Enter his love for flash cards, and recently, playing memory (not that he follows all the rules, but that’s okay, I try to not let it bug me even though I’m a stickler for rules).  What if I could come up with something that combined the two ideas?  That’s when these felt flash cards that also double as a memory game came to life.
The best part is that they are totally portable and you won’t be playing “52 Card Pickup” with them — unless you want to :).  They are stored on a metal ring so they can be toted along to church or in the car, with no worries about losing any!
This tutorial will guide you through the steps to make both your own felt flash cards and memory game!  The “cards” hang on a metal craft ring so they don’t get misplaced.  You can use the template for numbers and shapes that I have provided or make your own…  How about alphabet felt cards to help teach letters?!

Materials (for 16 flash cards):
1/2 yd brown felt
felt scraps in assorted colors
16 grommets or large eyelets and tool to apply

small scraps of fusible interfacing (16 scraps approximately 1″x1″)
large metal craft ring – mine was 2.5″



1. Using template provided, cut 32 rectangles of brown felt.  This will make 16 flash cards.  Pieces for the next few steps have square corners pictured but your’s will have rounded corners.

2. Using template provided, cut desired numbers and shapes out of assorted felt colors (the template provides more than 8 numbers and shapes so you can pick which ones you want or make extras).  Cut two of each number or letter so your cards can be used as a memory game as well.

3. Applique each number or shape to lower half of one brown rectangle, stitching around entire outer (and inner if applicable) edge of number or shape.
Note: I do not use Heat N Bond to applique for this project since the pieces are fairly small and felt is so easy to work with, but you can use it if you like.


4. When appliqueing, do not backstitch at beginning and end.  Instead, after stitching, tug on back threads gently, pulling a loop of the threads on the front to the back.  Pull the loop through, and you should now have 4 threads on the back of the felt.  Tie these threads together using a square knot and cut off any excess thread.

5. Apply one small scrap (approximately 1″x1″) to the wrong side of upper left corner of each piece you have appliqued.  This will reinforce the area where you will place a grommet at a later step.

6. Pin wrong side of each appliqued rectangular felt piece to a plain rectangular felt piece, matching edges.  Stitch around entire rectangles, close to edge (you can backstitch this time :)).

7. Following the directions on the package, attach a grommet or large eyelet to each card in the upper left corner.

8. Attach all the felt flash cards onto a metal craft ring.  Great job, you are done!

I like to divide the two sets of felt flash cards onto two different rings so that my boys can each play with a set.  When it’s time to play Memory, just combine the sets together!

No more worries about ripped and bent flash cards.  Even your baby is okay to get his little mitts on them.

Unfortunately Wyatt thinks that since they’re indestructable you’re supposed to throw them.

Linked to:

Today’s Creative Blog
Anti-Procrastination Tuesday
Lucky Star Lane

10 Minute Toddler Leg Warmers Tutorial

DIY Baby Leg Warmers


Have a pair of knee socks you’d like to refashion?  In 10 minutes your little lady can be stylin’ some new leg warmers with this 10 Minute Leg Warmer Tutorial!  Find the tutorial to make the ruffle skirt from a t-shirt here.


This tutorial will guide you through making toddler (or baby) leg warmers in — get this — 10 minutes!  You can’t get any easier than this project, and you’ll love the finished product.
pair of women’s knee socks (Target and the dollar store are great places to find inexpensive knee socks if you don’t have any to refashion)


1. Cut each sock off at ankle, forming a long tube of fabric.  Leg warmers can be made shorter by cutting sock off at a higher point above the ankle.

2. Cut heel and toe areas off of each sock.  This will form the upper band of the leg warmers.

3. For each sock, fold short tube of fabric in half, matching raw edges.

4. For each sock, place long tube of fabric inside of short tube, matching raw edges and right sides together.
5. Pin and sew 1/2″ from raw edges, joining the two pieces.  Trim seam allowance to 1/4″.

Unfold and Admire
5. Fold the cuff upwards and you are done!  Great job!  Head over here to make a matching (and by “matching,” I mean “un-matching”, cause it’s cuter that way) ruffle skirt.

Wear them long or cinch them up, she will love to wear them either way with her ruffle skirt!

Refashion Tutorial: Toddler Ruffle Skirt

It’s time to grab one of those tired t-shirts from your closet. Better yet, grab one from your husband’s closet! This tutorial will guide you through refashioning a t-shirt into a cute ruffly skirt for your little girl. This is an easy project, perfect if you are a beginner sewer or an experienced refashionista! The entire skirt can be completed in less than an hour, which is great because your little princess will be dying to wear it. The most difficult part of this project will be getting her to take the skirt off! Directions given are for size 2T/3T, but can easily be adjusted for a larger or smaller size.

Go here for the 10 minute leg warmers tutorial!


1 adult sized t-shirt (mine apparently came out of a laundry basket — clean, I promise)

*If you would like a skirt with a contrast ruffle as pictured, you will need a second t-shirt, which will allow you to make two skirts using the two shirts, both with a contrast ruffle.*
20″ length of 1″wide elastic


Cut Body of Skirt
1. Lay t-shirt flat, matching front and back lower hem. Measure 11″ from bottom of shirt and cut parallel to hem (this will give a finished skirt length of 9.5″ — adjust 11″ measurement if a shorter or longer length is desired). The t-shirt hem will remain in tact and be used as the skirt hem, and the side seams will serve as the skirt side seams — doesn’t leave much left for you to have to sew, huh?.

Note: The shirt used in this tutorial is a women’s size medium and approximately 34″ in diameter at the hem. The larger the diameter of the shirt, the fuller the finished skirt will be. If you are using a shirt that is wider at the hem than you want your finished skirt to be, you may want to take in one side seam to your desired width after completing step 1.

Cut Ruffle Strips
2. Using the entire width of the t-shirt, cut 1″ wide strips out of front and back of shirt. Trim off any side seams. You will need approximately 4 strips for each row of ruffles, 12 strips total (amount of strips needed will vary with the amount of gathers you choose).

Note: As is pictured in later steps, you may choose to use fabric from a second t-shirt for a contrasting ruffle. If so, cut 8 strips from your main t-shirt and 4 strips from a second t-shirt.

Sew Ruffles
3. To easily gather your 1″ strips, set your machine at it’s longest stitch length and it’s highest tension setting. This will gather the strip as you sew. Stitch (do not backstitch at beginning or end of stitch) down middle of one strip until you near the last inch of the strip.

4. When nearing the last 1″ of the strip, place another strip 1/2″ from the end of the first strip, overlapping the two. Strips pictured are different widths to illustrate overlap — your strips will be equal in width. Continue stitching down the second strip, attaching the two strips together. When nearing the end of the second strip, attach the 3rd strip the way that you joined the 1st and 2nd strips together. Repeat with the 4th strip. Leave the thread ends long on both ends of your now joined ruffle strips.

Attach Ruffles to Skirt
5. Lay completed ruffle over hem of skirt, ensuring that the length is sufficient to go all the way around the bottom of the skirt. Gently pulling TOP thread only, adjust gathers as needed.

6. Repeat steps 4-5 with 8 remaining 1″ strips, making two more completed ruffles.

7. Beginning at one side seam, align one ruffle parallel to bottom of hem, close to edge. Using normal machine settings, stitch ruffle to skirt, following basting stitch line that you made in step 4. Allow the end of the ruffle to overlap the beginning 1/2″, backstitch, and cut off any excess ruffle.

8. Pin second ruffle 1/4″ above first ruffle and stitch in place as you did the first ruffle.

9. Pin third ruffle 1/4″ above second ruffle and stitch in place as you did the first and second ruffles.

Sew Elastic Waistband
10. Turn top edge of skirt 1.5″ toward wrong side of skirt and pin in place (you may serge top edge of skirt first if desired, but since knits do not fray it’s not necessary). Stitch close to raw edge, forming elastic casing for waistband. Leave a 1″ opening to insert elastic.

11. Insert elastic through casing. Overlap the two ends of elastic 1″ and stitch together using a zigzag stitch. Stitch waistband opening closed.

Admire Your Work!
12. Let your little angel try on her new skirt! Great job!

Make it Yours @ My Backyard Eden

make it wear it
The Girl Creative